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Thank you for that show, Helena

Claes Britton | Aug 22, 2007 | 19 comments

And so Stockholm’s fashion week has once again succesfully reached the end of its road and we’re pleased to note that the trend continues: bigger, better, more beautiful and intense, and mounting international attention for each new season. Compared with as recently as half a decade ago, the metamorphosis is striking. Let’s hope that our friends at the Berns pleasure palace, Ekstranda investment company, Patriksson Communication PR and Bon magazine have the stamina to keep at it as Swedish fashion’s sponsors. If so, the future looks exciting.

Personally, I went through five shows, one installation and a most thorough party night over the course of a mere twenty-four hours before my spirit broke. Much of what I saw was good, too. I even thought I could detect something of a general tendency for a bit more extravagance and richness in color, although the simple, subdued ready-to-wear in cowardly faded nuances, black, white, grey and beige continued to dominate. To be honest, many of the Swedish brands’ lines resemble international cruise collections, with vaguely sporty, discreet and comfortable garments for the holidays, hardly anything to be shown on a catwalk. Another general trend is that the shows are far too long. Everything would be so much better in every way if the designers had the nerve to delete one T-shirt entrée or the other. Believe me, it’s nothing to brood over – just cut out five minutes minimum.

As everyone else have duly noted, it was of course Helena Hörstedt who stole the show with her long awaited first ever catwalk collection. The gifted young couturièse (is that what you call it – no, it can’t be?) didn’t disappoint anyone with her dramatic, pitch black show, though we’ve seen some of the looks before. It says a lot about the the artistic potential in Swedish fashion that we now have two such original and talented young high fashion designers as her and Sandra Backlund in this town, both of them from the remote north of Sweden no less.

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